CAROL AROMAS

MACE OIL

MACE OIL

NUTMEG and MACE (Myristica fragrans – Myristicaceae)

The trees which produce both nutmeg and mace are large evergreens native to the Moluccas but which are now grown elsewhere in the tropics, notably Grenada in the West Indies. The trees can reach a height of 18-24 m (60-80 ft), and are either male or female. One male per ten to twelve female trees is the norm in plantations, resulting in them being known as harem trees! The trees do not flower or fruit until about eight or nine years old (thus cannot be sexed until then) and yield about 100 fruits; by the time they are 30 years old, they can yield an average crop of 3 – 4,000 fruit a year. Trees (Myristica fragrans) can bear for a good 70 years.

Yellowish flowers are followed by large yellow apricot- or plum-like fruits. When they split open, these reveal the black seed (the nutmeg) wrapped in its red lacy aril (the mace). Both spices are dried separately, and the major producers are the Moluccas and Grenada, the latter exporting some 2,000 tonnes to the US each year. Nutmeg has always been more available and popular than mace, which is much more expensive; this is not surprising as mace equals one-fifth of the weight of the whole seed, and only 75 g (3 oz) mace are gained from 100 nutmegs.

ITS USES

In illness
In the eighteenth century, in France, mace was classified as a tonic and stimulant, as a cardiac tonic, as an aid for general fatigue, and as a brain stimulant. It continues to be revered for its digestive properties, for people who cannot assimilate food, for wind, and for pre-menstrual pain. Nutmeg too is a tonic, good for the heart, for convalescents, and for general fatigue. Nutmeg has a reputation as an abortificant (it was once used to ease labour in Malaysia), so should be avoided in pregnancy.

(See also backache.)

In cookery
Both spices can be used – but in moderation – to enliven food and do you good at the same time. To allay any fears, you would have to ingest at least two whole nutmegs before any hallucinatory effects were noticed.

Mace is available in blades (the dried aril itself) or as a powder (it is impossible to grind at home). It loses its aroma very quickly, so buy a little at a time. It is used in cakes and sweet dishes, and in some sausages and curry dishes. I like to use it as an aid to slow digestion, and as a good stimulant of the nervous system, in milky rice puddings, and in the egg mix for omelettes along with some coriander leaves.

Nutmeg, too, comes ground or whole, being best ground freshly from the whole nut on special nutmeg graters, for spicing of egg dishes, sauces (a white or cheese sauce for cauliflower, for instance), and cakes. It goes particularly well with onions and spinach, and mashed potatoes benefit from a good sprinkling. Nutmeg is included also in sausages, ravioli, and many spiced Eastern dishes. A sprinkling of nutmeg on a hot drink – hot chocolate, say – can have pick-me-up properties (not what you want at night, unless you need to work late).

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